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From Nasi Lemak to Nasi Pecel: Discovering Indonesia Through Food as a Malaysian

Soo Xianyan
Mahasiswa Fakultas Kedokteran Hewan Universitas Airlangga
11 Desember 2024 12:48 WIB
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Coming from a multicultural background, I’ve always believed that food is more than just nourishment—it’s a bridge to understanding people, history, and traditions. As a Malaysian Chinese student living in Indonesia, one of the most delightful surprises I’ve encountered is how food bridges cultural divides and fosters a sense of belonging.
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Indonesia, with its rich diversity of ethnicities and traditions, offers a culinary journey that feels both familiar and refreshingly new. Here’s how local cuisine helped me connect with Indonesian culture and integrate into this vibrant community.
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Rujak Cingur: A Taste of History in Every Bite
One of my earliest food adventures in Surabaya was discovering Rujak Cingur. Intrigued by its reputation as a signature Surabaya dish, I ventured into a small, bustling warung near campus to try it. The dish, with its unique blend of fruits, vegetables, and the surprising addition of cow snout (cingur), immediately caught my attention.
As I took my first hesitant bite, the explosion of flavors—spicy, sweet, sour, and savory—was unlike anything I’d tasted before. Determined to understand the story behind this bold combination, I chatted with the warung owner, who enthusiastically shared its cultural significance. She explained how Rujak Cingur embodies the Javanese philosophy of balance and harmony, reflecting Surabaya’s identity as a melting pot of influences and resilience.
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Exploring this dish on my own not only challenged my palate but also deepened my appreciation for the ingenuity of Javanese cuisine and the stories woven into every bite.
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Rawon: A Bowl of Warmth and Tradition
Curiosity led me to discover Rawon, the iconic black beef soup that has since become my go-to comfort food in Surabaya. While exploring a local food market one afternoon, I was drawn to the rich aroma wafting from a small stall and decided to give it a try.
The first spoonful was a revelation—its deep, nutty flavor from keluak (black nuts) was both familiar and distinct, reminding me of the hearty stews from back home in Malaysia but with a uniquely Javanese twist. Fascinated, I struck up a conversation with the stall owner, who shared stories about Rawon being a staple at communal gatherings, from weddings to religious ceremonies. She explained how the dish symbolizes togetherness and is often served to bring people closer.
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My solo food exploration soon turned into a shared experience, as I introduced friends, both local and international, to this heartwarming dish. Each shared bowl of Rawon became an opportunity to connect, fostering a sense of community and creating lasting bonds in this vibrant city.
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Tahu Tek: Street Food and Stories
One evening, while wandering through one of Surabaya’s bustling night markets, I stumbled upon a street vendor serving Tahu Tek. The sight of him expertly assembling the dish—fried tofu, lontong (compressed rice cakes), and a generous drizzle of peanut sauce—instantly caught my attention. Intrigued, I joined the line and decided to try it for myself.
As I savored the dish’s rich, nutty flavors paired with the soft texture of lontong and the crispness of the tofu, I could not help but strike up a conversation with the vendor. He proudly shared how Tahu Tek had been a family tradition, passed down through generations. His stories of preserving this legacy reminded me of the hawker stalls back in Malaysia, where food is not just sustenance but also a cherished inheritance.
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Exploring Tahu Tek that night felt like uncovering a piece of Surabaya’s soul—a blend of artistry, tradition, and community spirit, all served on a humble plate.
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A Journey of Similarities and Differences
Coming from Malaysia, I was already familiar with dishes like rendang and satay, staples in both Malaysian and Indonesian cuisine. But tasting rendang Padang in Indonesia revealed subtle differences—bolder spices and richer textures that told a story of Minangkabau heritage.
Similarly, the Indonesian sate ayam—grilled chicken skewers paired with peanut sauce—felt like a cousin to the satay I grew up with. These similarities made me feel at home while the unique variations pushed me to explore beyond my comfort zone.
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Food as a Cultural Connector
Eating local food helped me connect not just with the cuisine but also with the people. At a small warung near campus, I struck up a conversation with the owner while enjoying lontong balap. She shared the story behind the dish—a traditional Javanese recipe served during festivities to symbolize speed and energy.
These moments reminded me of my own cultural heritage in Malaysia, where food also carries stories of family and tradition. Despite our differences, I realized how closely intertwined our Southeast Asian cultures are. The flavors of Indonesia echoed the richness of my own roots, creating a sense of familiarity in a foreign land.
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Breaking Barriers Through Food
Food has a magical way of breaking down barriers. As an international student, sharing meals with local friends became a way to build friendships. When they introduced me to tahu tek or bebek goreng (crispy fried duck), I reciprocated by bringing them Malaysian snacks like bak kut teh or kaya toast. These exchanges fostered mutual appreciation for our respective cultures.
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Why Local Cuisine Matters for Cultural Integration
For international students like me, local cuisine is more than sustenance—it’s an entry point into a culture. It bridges gaps, fosters understanding, and nurtures a sense of belonging. Here’s why food is essential for cultural integration:
1. Break Down Barriers: Food is a universal language. A shared love for a dish like mie goreng can spark friendships.
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2. Foster Respect: Learning the origins of a dish shows appreciation for the culture behind it.
3. Promote Belonging: Adopting local food habits, like eating es cendol on a hot day, makes you feel like part of the community.
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A Taste of Home Away from Home
As a Malaysian Chinese student, my journey with Indonesian food has been one of rediscovery and connection. It’s a reminder that while borders and traditions may differ, our shared love for food can unite us.
So, to my fellow international students: don’t just eat to survive—eat to thrive. Let Indonesian cuisine open doors, spark friendships, and make you feel at home in this beautiful country.
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Selamat makan!